If the 2023 vintage will remain in the memory of winegrowers as one of the most difficult they have known, it will ultimately bring us quality, expressive and pleasant wines. The very big surprise comes from the whites which, despite the vagaries of the weather, have very promising aromatic expressions.
All French regions experienced roughly the same climatological profile. After a mild winter, the vines budded normally, presenting branches with a significant number of clusters. The spring was gloomy with light but very frequent rains. There were no frost incidents but disease pressure was very strong, particularly during and after flowering, when the clusters are most fragile. A cool and not very sunny start to the summer ended with exceptional heat peaks at the end of August and the beginning of September, then a calm and warm month of September which allowed the winegrowers to finish their harvest peacefully.
Château Magnol:
As everywhere in France, the climatology of 2023 was very demanding for the winegrowers of Château Magnol. A mild and dry winter, leading to early budburst, an equatorial spring causing an exceptional outbreak of downy mildew, a gloomy summer with two violent heatwave peaks that damaged the vines and fortunately an ideal end of September which made it possible to bring the cabernets to a high level of quality. In the end a lovely wine, with fine fruitiness and a juicy mouthfeel, supple and elegant tannins which should accept oaking very well. After an exceptional 2022 vintage of richness and power, we will find with the 2023 a Château Magnol more classic in its elegance, its suppleness and its remarkable drinkability.
For our other Bordeaux wines, the vintage was particularly trying for our partners. The mildew epidemic was violent in Bordeaux. Although drained lands were less impacted, no one was spared. The heatwave reduced yields and blocked maturity on many Merlots. Sorting the harvest was crucial this year to remove berries dried by mildew or drought. We are particularly proud of our winegrower partners who were able to manage these difficult conditions. We currently have some remarkable white wines. The first tastings of red wines reveal intense colors, noses of ripe red fruits and elegant and sapid tannins. Less powerful than the 22, the 23 should combine finesse, elegance and drinkability. In any case, it is with this in mind that we will think about our maturing.
Our Loire Valley winegrowers are satisfied with their harvest after this very chaotic year (especially in the Muscadet appellation). The degrees are limited despite the heatwave peaks of summer and the wines will be fresh and fruity, exactly the characteristics that we want to find in Loire wines.
Most appellations had an amazing yield, but the significant development of Crémant de Loire is reducing the volume potential of Anjou rosé. We are seeing strong demand for the Chenin grape variety, particularly in Vouvray, which is having a very active start to the season. Luckily, our partners will remain faithful to Barton & Guestier to allow us once again to make very high-quality vintages.
An exceptional Chardonnay harvest in quality and quantity. The Chardonnay resisted the heat peak very well and was harvested early enough for volumes to be there.
The Gamay from our Beaujolais village was more impacted by the heatwave. The expected yields were finally lower than expected. But the wines that are beginning to reveal themselves are rich and powerful with beautiful colors.
The region was strongly impacted by the lack of precipitation and the extreme temperatures of late August. Grenache particularly stood out because it is very adapted to these weather conditions. It is too early to talk about Châteauneuf but our partners from the Côtes du Rhône which are to the west of the appellation were not that much affected by the drought and made wines with great concentration and a lot of elegance.
In our Vidauban cellar in Provence, we brought in quality grapes despite the extreme heat. The mastery of pressing and our ability to cool the musts and even leave them on the lees near fermentation were decisive for the success of the vintage. If there are few thiolated profiles, we find fruit profiles such as peaches and apricots which correspond to the style of our Tourmaline.
It was a very contrasting year depending on rainfall and irrigation capacity. The vintage, which promised to be generous, was impacted by the drought experienced in certain areas of Languedoc and especially by very impressive heatwave peaks. The whites had to be harvested quickly and only at the end of the night. Winegrowers have seen red yields decline with evaporation and water stress. We will therefore have on average a small vintage, but very satisfactory qualities. Whites and Rosés are particularly aromatic. Reds come with lots of color and surprisingly soft and elegant tannins.
We finally find an abundant year in the Gers department. Despite the heat waves at the end of summer, the sauvignons are very aromatic with a blackcurrant-citrus tendency. The palates are fresh and juicy with a pleasant salinity on the finish.
Overall, the 2023 vintage looks promising, and I will be pleased to share the first tastings of the new vintage with you during Vinexpo Paris and Prowein!